Carburetor Rejetting   

This installation is to be performed at your own risk!!!!

 

         Here is a basic list of tools you will need:

         First of all, remove your Carbs.

    1.)   After removing your carbs place them on a suitable work area.  Disconnect the linkage to the carbs and place them somewhere where they won't be damaged.  The first three pics below show the linkage on carbs from a 2000 GPR.  The fourth pic is from my 2002 GPR and is there to show the difference of the linkage.  There is a little difference but they work the same.  Disconnect the hoses to the first carb but leave them attached to the second car so you can match them up easily later.    

 

    2.)    Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the first carb to the silver braket.  By first carb I mean the one that is closest to the bow of the ski.

 

    3.)    Loosen the two 5 mm hex bolts on the bottom of the carb rack to remove the first carb.  Remove the first carb from the rack.

 

    4.)    Locate which side the high speed adjuster is on and place that side up in a bench vise.  You can tell by the "H" mark or the "L" mark next to the tamper caps.  Be sure to double up on towels between the jaws of the vise and the carb body.  Make sure everything is clear before you tighten the vise.  DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE VISE.  It doesn't need to be tight.  Just secure the carb..

 

    5.)    Take your center punch and put a small indentation into the center of the tamper cap so the drill bit won't slide around on you.  Drill carefully into the tamper cap making sure not to drill to deep and mess up the adjuster screw underneath.  If you drill too deep, YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO TAKE THE SCREW OUT!.

 

    6.)   Once you have the hole drilled find a suitable screw to use in the end of the slide hammer.  I usually put the screw through the tip of the slide hammer and screw it in to the tamper cap.  Then screw the tip onto the slide hammer.  Pull out the tamper cap.

 

    7.)   Repeat with the low speed tamper cap.

    8.)  Put the carb back in the vise with the smooth sided cover facing up.  This is the opposite side from the fuel pump.  It is pretty smooth and has four Phillips screws on it.  DON'T STRIP THESE SCREWS.  You may need to use an impact screwdriver to get them off.  Pull the screws out and remove the cover.

 

        9.)  Remove the two Phillips screws to expose the jets.  Using a small flathead screwdriver take the high speed jet out and replace with your new one.  Repeat with the low speed jet.  Put the cover back on and make sure the gasket is seated properly.  The second pic below shows the two jets.  They are the brass flathead screws by the black gasket.  Be careful not to mess up the arm when taking the cover off and putting it back on.

 

        10.)  Take a good look at the arm, arm pin and spring fits together and remove the Phillips screw that holds the arm pin down.  Hold your finger over the arm so nothing goes flying anywhere.  Note how the arm fits into the top of the needle and remove the arm and the spring.  Place to the side.

 

        11.)  Remove the Phillips screw that holds down the needle valve seat holder and remove the needle by pulling straight up on it.  You can do this before you take out the Phillips if you wish.  Pull the seat out with a pair of needlenose pliers.

 

        12.)  Put in your new needle and seat.  Replace the needle valve seat holder and screw.  Replace your spring and reassemble the arm, arm pin and screw down.  Replace cover.

       13.)  Remove the low speed adjuster and the highspeed adjuster with a flathead screwdriver.  These are the ones we pulled the tamper caps out for and replace with the proper T-handle.  You can use a pair of needlenose pliers to get the o-ring on the T-handle.  Place a fair amount of grease around the T-handle to seal out any moisture or water that might want to get down in the holes.

 

        14.)  Replace the carb on the rack.  Pull the hoses off of the middle carb and connect them on the carb you just finished.  Pull the second carb off the rack and repeat the above procedures.  Put the middle carb back on the rack and repeat all of the above procedures.  If you want to disable the accelerator pump the time to do it is when you have that carb off the rack.

        15.)  Disassembly of the accelerator pump:  There is no need to buy an accelerator block off kit unless you really want to spend the money. To disable the accelerator pump just pull off the linkage.  You remove the pin.  In order to get the pin all the way out you will probably have to bend it.  By doing this you won't have to buy a primer kit.  If you ever need to prime the carbs you can just reach down and give it a few shots yourself by pushing it manually.

 

        16.)  Adjustment of the T-handles:  If you have a Stage 1 or a Stage 2 ski, close all of your low speed T-handles and open them up one turn.  That should be good.  As far as your highs, close them all and open them up to 1 3/4 turns and tune from that point.  I use a long Craftsman screwdriver to reach the T-handles.  The part number is 41751 and I cut a notch in the blade portion in order to grip the T-handles.  I also drilled a hole in the batter tray between the fire extinguisher and the battery and slip it there so it is always with me.

          17.)  When your finished assembling your carb rack wire tie the fuel lines back together.  Make sure you wire tie all of the lines you cut.

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