Differential R & R w/DTE Diff Brace

All of these installations are to be performed at your own risk!!!!

For DTE and other parts please visit:

    So you want to remove your differential huh, well get ready for some fun.  This process is done when you want to swap out gears in your car to lower your ET times on the street or the track.  This is one of the best mods you can do for your car.  It is definitely one of my favorites.  This work was done on my 2002 Coupe.  The Getrag differential in the 2002 MN6 comes equipped with a 3.42 gear ratio from the factory which isn't too shabby but I wanted a little more pull so I went with the 4.10s.

    Since I liked doing work myself I was able to save money and put that money elsewhere like into the components of the differential.  I knew I would be running ET Streets so I decided to beef up my diff with the hardened performance parts from Dynotech Engineering.  These parts include both hardened output shafts, a billet pinion support, hardened pre-load springs, and the differential brace.  I took the differential out and had Texas Auto Gear set the gears.  This requires very precise tolerances not to mention some very expensive tools in order to properly set in the ring and pinion and the Getrag differential is an entirely different animal than other diffs.  I did this job alone but some of the components are heavy so another person would be ideal.  Ok, so let's get to work!

Tools you will need:

• Couple of floor jack, 3 jack stands, transmission or motorcycle jack
• Wrenches:  1/2, 5/8, 8mm, 14mm
• Sockets:  8mm, 10mm, 11mm, 13mm, 13mm deep well, 15mm, 15mm deep well, 17mm, 18mm, 21mm deep well
• Hex keys:  10mm
• Torque wrench
• 9 plastic cups or bags for bolts and nuts

Supplies:

• Gear Oil - I use Redline 75w90 with additive - 4 bottles
• GM Additive - 2 bottles
• Latex gloves - I like using these because it is much easier to clean hands later.
• Transmission fluid (good time to change if you want) - 4 bottles of Redline D4 ATF for an MN6
• Copper silicon sealer

Step 1:

    Loosen the lugnuts on your rear wheels and jack up the vehicle.  The higher you get the rear end the better.  I placed the front of my car on ramps and jacked the rear end up about 18-20 inches off the ground.  Place your pucks in and place jackstands underneath to support the vehicle.  You may need to jack up a couple of times to get your car high enoug.  Pull your rear tires off and place under the vehicle as well for extra safety.  Open your hood and remove negative battery cable.

Step 2:

    Loosen your brake caliper bolts with a 15mm socket.  There is one on the top and one on the bottom.  Hold the caliper pin with a 5/8" wrench while turning the socket.  After removing the two caliper bolts slide the caliper off.  I place mine in the heat shield.  This is a good way to get them out of your way.    Place bolts in plastic cup and mark the cup as caliper bolts.  Zip tie your pads in place so they don't fall out.  Repeat with the other side of vehicle.

Step 3:

    Open beer and repeat throughout process as often as needed.

Step 4:

    Undo the 13mm bolts a the top of the shock.  Repeat for other side.  Place bolts in plastic cup and mark cup as shock bolts.

Step 5:

    Loosen the two 18mm bolts at the top of the upper control arm.  Swing control arm free of its mounting brackets.  Place bolts in cup and mark the cup as control arm bolts.  Repeat for other side.

Back to Vette Page