Differential R & R w/DTE Diff Brace
All of these installations are to be performed at your own risk!!!!
Step 6:
After you remove the above items you can now disengage the wheel drive shafts from the differential. Slightly move the rotors back and forth and give it a couple of good tugs. You will feel it start to pull out. Disengage the emergency brake cable from its place and diconnect the wiring harness. Remove the two 15mm bolts that hold the emergency cable bracket. I've heard of some people just pulling the cable out of its holder but I found it easier just to remove the bracket. Place the bolts in a cup and mark the cup as emergency cable bracket bolts. Repeat for other side.
Step 7:
Now for the exhaust system. Undo the the four 15mm bolts that hold the cat back system to the h-pipe. Place these in a cup and mark the cup as cat back to h-pipe bolts.
Next, loosen the 15mm bracket bolts the front middle of the exhaust system and also, using a 15mm deep well, remove the nuts that hold the h-pipe to the manifolds.
Pull the wire clips off that hold the oxygen sensors wires up. This will allow you to drop the h-pipe down without removing the oxygen sensors.
Now remove the two 13mm h-pipe spring/hang bolts and carefully lower the h-pipe down. I placed myself under the h-pipe and lifted up on it while removing the bolts. Once the bolts were out I gently lowered it down on top of me and slid to the side. You can place it on the ground and slide it forward quite a bit. My car was at the perfect height with regards to the oxygen sensor wires. I had plenty of slack to get the h-pipe out of the way without removing the oxygen sensors. Cup all of the bolts and nuts together and mark the cup h-pipe noting that the 13mm bolts are for the spring/hang.
Step 8:
Remove the 8mm bolts holding the tunnel cover up. This is where air tools would really come in handy! I don't have air tools so I chalked up a 1/4" extension in my 1/2" drill and removed the bolts that way. It only took me about 5 bolts before I figured that trick out. Remove the tunnel shield from the car and cup all the bolts marking the cup as tunnel shield bolts.
Step 9:
Using a 8mm socket, disconnect the intake from the throttle body to relieve stress when lowering the driveline later.
Now is a good time to take plenty of different pictures of the rear end so you can look at them later when putting the rear back together. I took plenty so I could tell which side of what wires and brake lines run.
Step 10:
Place your transmission jack under the rear crossmember. I didn't have a transmission jack but I used a motorcycle jack/lift and it worked out great! Now, using a deep well 21mm socket, remove the four nuts that hold the rear crossmember up.
