Engine Removal and Swap
All of these installations are to be performed at your own risk!!!!
Relieve the pressure of the fuel lines by pulling the cap off the front of the driver's side fuel rail and depressing the schraeder valve. Put a rag underneath it to catch the gas the will spill out. Now disconnect the main fuel feed using the appropriate fuel disconnect tool. The collared ones don't work easily. Just get a set of the cheapos from Sear's or an auto parts store and these will do the trick.
Disconnect the remaining hoses and plugs to the intake noting where they go.
Disconnect the four gray tabs that hold the injector plug harness up from there spots on the rails. Now remove the ten (10) 8mm bolts that bolt the intake down. Leave the back two in as they will not come all the way because they will hit the cowl. Keep this in mind when reinstalling. Slide the intake forward slightly and disconnect the EGR hose, the plug, and the vacuum hose from the back of the intake. Remove the intake from the engine compartment making sure you have everything disconnected.
Step 4 (Disconnect, disconnect, disconnect):
Unplug the coolant temperature sensor on the driver's side head. It is located just behind the alternator bracket. Go ahead and release the main drive belt by using a 15mm socket on the tensioner.
Pull the EGR hoses that connect the valve covers and the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve on the rear of the driver's side valve cover. There is a ground wire on the back of the driver's head that is connected with a 10mm bolt.
Remove the coil packs by taking off the 10mm (deep well) bolts. There are five (5) on each side.
If you have long tube headers, now is a good time to pull those. The stock manifolds will probably come out with the engine since they are so small but I am not sure of that so don't hold me to it.
