Cartek line lock
All of these installations are to be performed at your own risk!!!!
First of all, burnouts are traditionally done in second gear because you get more even wheel spin. The way I've done it for years was to back into the water box and get my tires wet give a little spin to knock off any gravel. Pull forward, put the car in second gear and let her rip. This can take a little skill because you have to immediately put your foot on the brakes to stop the car from rolling forward but not depressing the brakes too hard because you will stall the car. All of this while keeping the correct RPMs. Most of the time your rear end will move a little but you will still get an excellent burnout.
So, why spend the money for a line lock if you can do this? Well, first of all you wear your brake pads in the rear much quicker. More importantly when you are doing a burnout with the brakes applied you will overheat the clutch packs in the differential. The rear brakes will not apply the same holding force from side-to-side in a burnout. This causes uneven wheel spin and will make the differential assembly operate at increased torsional loads. This will cause the clutch packs to heat up and will also burn the lubricant inside the differential. When this happens you risk the chance of welding the clutch pack discs together. This is the reason you always want to use high quality synthetic lubricants in the differential if you do any type of racing at all.
This install was fairly easy. I think the most difficult part was running the wires into the cabin. Let's get started!
Tools you will need:
Supplies:
The Cartek line lock kit will come with the following:
Step 1 (Removal of Alternator):
You can probably do this job without removing the alternator but since it takes about 5 minutes go ahead and do it. It give a lot more room to work. First, disconnect your battery. Unplug the connector on top of the alternator and remove the power cable by removing the 13mm nut.
Take a 1/2" wratchet with a 15mm socket on it and place it on the belt tensioner. Go to the other side by the alternator. Reach over and pull the wratchet towards you to give the belt some slack. Pull the belt off gently and set right in front of the alternator being careful not to let it undo itself from the rest of the pulleys.
Remove the two 15mm bolts holding the alternator in. With a large srewdriver, pry the top out and grab the alternator and wiggle it the rest of the way out.
Step 2 (Removal of Brake Line):
Remove the plug from the master cylinder. The brake line we are going to replace is the one closest to the windshield. This is the right front brake. You can follow it all the way to the distribution block where it is labeled "RF". In the picture of the distribution block the line is on top side at the lower left. Make sure you verify the marking and follow it to the master cylinder.
Take a good look at the way the right front brake line is routed because you will want to run the line lock just like this one. With a 13mm wrench disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder and the distribution block. No fluid will spill from the master cylinder when you remove the line. A little will spill from the distribution block.
Step 3 (Installation of Line Lock):
To give yourself a little more room go ahead and remove the washer reservoir. This is two 10mm bolts, 2 plugs, and the water feed. The main purpose of removing the reservoir is to give a little more room to thread the new line into the master cylinder. There is very little clearance and you risk the chance of cross-threading the new one and you definitely do not want this to happen. Once the line is removed start to feed the new line with the line lock into the engine compartment. Start at the master cylinder side and feed it down to the distribution block. Remember, this line will run underneath the other one.
After you have it installed you can go ahead and bleed the front brakes. Probably better to bleed all four but bleeding just the fronts worked for me. I did it from the distribution block. I got my wife to come out and press the brake pedal down while I cracked open the line at the distribution block. She held it, I tightened it. I did this several times until it quit bubbling. I did not lose hardly any fluid. In fact, my master cylinder is just under the max fill line and I did not have to add any fluid.
