LGM Long Tube Headers
All of these installations are to be performed at your own risk!!!!
Step 3 (Installation of LGM Long Tube Headers):
When you install the O2 sensors you must make absolutely sure that the driver's side goes to the driver's side and the passenger's side goes to the passenger's side. When installed, they point to opposite directions so it would be easy to mix this up. Take your time running the wires and make sure they are not touching any part of the headers. This goes for all and any wires. I ran the O2 sensor wires back behind the shield like OEM and zip tied any wires away from the headers. Pay particular attention to the starter wires as well. This are tricky to get away from the headers.
Step 4 (Installation of X-Pipe):
When you are ready to install the x-pipe place it under the car in the position it will go up. The longer pipe will go on the driver's side and the slits will be towards the front. These slits allow the x-pipe to slide on to the headers and properly seal. Make sure you have the clamps around the pipes before connecting the x-pipe to the headers. You want the bolts facing down and towards the outside. Push the x-pipe on to the headers and slide until you can no longer see through the slits and tighten clamps just to hold the pipes still. Not tight yet. Now go back into the engine compartment and tighten all 12 header bolts to 18 ft./lbs. and then tighten the four bellhousing bracket bolts.
Step 5 (Installation of Catalytic Converters):
Since I bought my exhaust used the cats were already attached. If you don't have your cats attached and want to run them now is the time to put them on. If they don't have the slits in them you will need to take a die grinder, hacksaw or dremmel and cut the slits into them on the side that is marked "inlet". Your cut should be about 1 inch. Put the cats on to your rear pipes and clamp down. Remember that all cuts go towards the front of the car and all clamp bolts will be facing downwards, towards the inside. The shorter of the two pipes will be the driver's side. Attach the rear pipes and loosely clamp. Replace the two 13mm bolts that held the h-pipe up to the "springs". They will now work with the x-pipe. Tighten all the clamps down.
Step 6 (Installation of new plugs - optional):
I chose to install new plugs while doing this install. Now is a good time to do it. I went with NGK TR55s and kept them gapped at .55 using anti-seize on the threads when installing.
Step 7 (Connect the AIR pipes back to the headers):
If you have a 1997-2000, you will need to do a conversion. You can find instructions for this at www.ls1tech.com under the LGM header install. Go back the engine bay and reconnect the AIR pipes to the headers. I used new gaskets here. Reconnect any other hoses you may have disconnected if any.
Step 8 (Installation of dipstick tube):
Time to replace the dipstick tube. Just to get a reference you can position your head in the right way and see the hole where the dipstick goes into which is located next to the starter and towards the front. You can reach it to push the tube in to fully seat it. Replace the tube retainer that was previously removed.
Step 9 (Reinstall the valve cover):
Place the passenger valve cover back on top of the head and torque the bolts down to 9 ft./lbs. Don't forget about the two hoses.
Step 10 (Reinstall the alternator):
Reinstall the alternator by putting in the bottom bolt first and then the top before tightening the bottom. Reconnect the power to it and reconnect the plug at the top. Reinstall the drive belt using the same 15mm wrench on the tensioner.
Step 11 (Reinstall the coil packs):
Make sure you plug in the white plug at the top.
Step 12 (Install new plug wires):
Now is a good time for this. I chose the MSD wires over the Taylors. Place some dialectic grease on the portion of the wires that connect to the plug and coil.
Step 13 (Double Check!):
Double check to make sure you have all of your hoses connected and your wires plugged in.
Step 14 (Installation of Borla Stingers):
There really isn't much to this. Just make sure you jack your car up about 36" so you can get your OEM mufflers out. Borla's instructions are pretty straight forward for this install.
Remove the two top 15mm bolts and two bottom 18mm nuts holding the sway bar on. Swing the swar bar down out of the way so you will have more clearance to remove the mufflers.
On automatic transmission equipped cars you will need to remove the muffler hangers located in the very rear of the car. This is not necessary on the M6 as you will be able to move the over axle pipe assemblies. For the M6, just slide the tab from the muffler out of the hanger. Remove the mufflers. I had the car high enough so I did not have to cut the stock exhaust in order to get it out. Place each Borla over axle pipe in place and thread in bolts using the nuts from the OEM manifolds to connect the over axle pipes to the rear pipes of the LGM system. Keep them loose for now.
Place a clamp on the expanded end of the Borla mufflers. On automatic transmission equipped models, slide rubber muffler hangers on to the muffler brackets, now place the mufflers into position attaching them to the over axle pipe assemblies and bolt the rubber hangers back into position using the original bolts tightening them to 12-15 ft./lbs. of torque. On manual transmission equipped models you should be able to slid muffler hangers back into their rubber brackets and attach mufflers to over axle pipe assembly. Don't tighten the clamps yet.
Holding the exhaust tips in the proper position, tighten the clamps to 32-35 ft./lbs. and the flanges to 35-40 ft./lbs. Check your system for proper clearance under the car and also for your tip alignment. Horizontal adjustments can be made by loosening the flange connecting the over axle pipes to the exhaust. Vertical adjustments can be made by loosengin the clamp securing the mufflers to the over axle pipe.
Once you determine the correct position, swing the sway bar back up and reinstall the nuts and bolts. Torque the upper bolts to 45-49 ft./lbs and the lower nuts to 65-70 ft./lbs. Check for any clearance issues.
Congratulations! You are done. Please be aware that the first time you start your car you will have smoke coming from your hood and possible under the car. It will be accompanied with a lovely smell. This is just your exhaust burning off all the oils and grease that are on the pipes. It'll be gone after your first ride.
Once last thing, drink some beer!
