racetronix Fuel System
All of these installations are to be performed at your own risk!!!!
So if you don't want to spend $2000 on a proper fuel system that supports over 1000 HP what can you do to help? If you don't need the big dog fuel system and you want to support a little over 500 HP what do you do? Well, the Racetronix pump and harness kit is one of the answers. Here is the info from website of this particular vendor (Racetronix).
Fuel Pump
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Hotwire Harness
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| Walbro direct-fit HP Gerotor Jet Pump:
This pump is a direct fit replacement for the factory Walbro
jet-pump. Direct-fit means no modification to the fuel module is GM type no-kink solvent resistant fuel tube: This fuel tube is the same type used by GM from the factory. The fuel
tube is kink-resistant thanks to its ribbed design. Its special
composition makes it more resistant to the solvents in today's pump gas
(i.e. toluene, Xylene, MTBE, Ethanol) as compared to Upgraded 14 gauge Teflon in-tank wiring: Racetronix has upgraded the factory Teflon wiring from 16 gauge to 14
gauge silver-plated multi-strand copper wire. This helps Direct-power pump wiring (no adapters / splices): The Racetronix in-tank wiring harness is a one-piece assembly. One end has the Walbro connector and the other is fitted with GM type terminals which are installed directly into the factory connector making it true plug & play. Generic wiring harnesses require cutting and splicing of the factory wiring. Redundant in-tank ground loop (solves problem): The factory in-tank wiring has the ground from the pump and ground
from the power connector split into two circuits which relies on
push-lock terminals and the module's body as a ground junction source.
We have seen these connectors lose and in some cases corroded. If one
were to fail the pump would lose power. Racetronix has redesigned the
grounding system with a daisy-chain / loop through circuit. This way
there are three grounds all tied together thereby making circuit failure
almost next to impossible. An extra ground is also provided via the
external upgrade harness via a ground lug. This further enhances the
fuel module's grounding system and eliminates the chance of a floating
ground condition. A floating ground condition will cause a static
buildup and potential fuel Fuel Screen / Silicon gasket seal: A new replacement filter screen and silicon pump seal are provided Alternator-direct power for maximum voltage / True PnP with GM type connectors: The Racetronix PnP upgrade harness provides alternator direct power
for maximum pump voltage. Racetronix has documented an Redundant grounds = improved voltage & reliability: A redundant ground is provided which loops into the harness. This
loop enhances ground to the factory harness making a two-fold Pump-booster PnP ready: The Racetronix harness is equipped with an intermediate high-current
(30 amp) connector just after the relay. This allows for easy Fuel Pump Drain & Power System A special wiring harness is included with this system which allows
the in-tank pump to be powered up without the vehicle running. Hardware included: Plenty of wire-ties are included as well as a SS mounting screw for
the fuse holder, spare 20A ATC fuse and silicon grease to lube
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Fuel Pump System $349.99
Available through authorized |
& Drain System $149.99
Available through authorized |
| Technical note:
The Racetronix fuel pump in this system is
capable of supporting apx. 600RWHP @ 0.5 BSFC @ 58PSI (400KPa) using
factory lines. In early model C5's with rail-mounted fuel pressure
regulators the above HP support can be achieved. Late model C5's with the returnless rail system
will not be able to achieve this level of HP support with the fuel
system alone. Please understand that this is not an issue
with the Racetronix system but rather a design limitation of the factory
configuration. 2003 C5 Corvettes can be checked for
compatibility with the Racetronix fuel system. If your access port for
the fuel module can be seen in front of the driver's side rear tire
(under the car) then this system will work. If it is not visible then
you have the new type of module which goes in from the top of the tank.
The Racetronix system is not compatible with this fuel module / system.
If you are not sure please have a qualified person check before ordering
your system. |
This install is fairly easy but somewhat time consuming if you want to do it right.
Tools you will need:
Supplies:
The Racetronix kit that you will will get now has the pump already in the bucket, unlike the picture above. So it is a plug and play kit.
Note: If you have the dreaded C5 faulty gas gauge, it is the sending unit. Now would be a good time to replace it. The driver's side tank part number for the sending unit is GM 10333749. Sometimes cleaning it will work but sometimes not for long so I will do a how to for that replacement separately. Let's get started.
Step 1 (Removal of Heat Shield and Draining Tank):
Suitably jack your vehicle up in the rear and pull your driver's rear tire off. The fuel pump is located under the silver tank heat shield. There are two parts, to remove the first part you need to remove the 10mm nut and a 13mm bolt. It will slide right off. To remove the second half of the heat shield there are four (4) 13mm bolts holding it up. There may be some double sided tape helping hold it up so just yank it. There is no need to support the tank, it may drop a little but it is fine.
Now disconnect the factory plug to the pump and plug the Ractronix harness into the factory pump and the OEM plug into the Racetronix harness. The ground and power leads do not need to be connected.
Now you need to go towards the middle part of the Racetronix harness and find the jumper plugs. Disconnect this plug and connect the supplied line that comes with the Racetronix kit to this plug. This is the supplied line that has the alligator clip on it. The picture below is of the jumper plug.
Disconnect the bottom feed line from the pump. This is the one with the black flag on it and has a blue retaining clip. You can either get the proper tool or gently push up on each side of the colored retaining clip and it will pop right off while you are pulling it. Be careful if you are using a screwdriver. It works for me but I take now responsibility for any of my suggestions. It is always better to use a proper tool. Some gas will come out but not a lot so don't worry about it. Just don't be smoking while you do this step. Attach the silicone hose to this nipple on the pump and put the other end into a suitable container to catch the gas.
Now, attach the alligator clip to the battery and let the pump run for a long time. It will take a while depending on the amount of gas you have in the tank. When you think it is finished move the tank around some and some more may come out. Once the gas is out disconnect the clip and also remove the remaining fuel lines from the tank noting which order they are in. The order on my 2002 from top to bottom is green, blue, and black. Some more gas may spill out of the lines.
Step 2 (Removal of Pump):
Remove the six (6) 7mm bolts holding the pump into the tank. Once you remove these make sure you have a container under the pump because more gas will come out. Probably around 1/2 gallon. At this point pull the pump out enough to where the sending unit is exposed and you can get to it. This is located right on top and has a swing arm that the float assembly attaches to.
Gently pull off the black safety clip in the above picture and carefully pull the float assembly out of the tank. You may have to twist and turn it a little to get it out of the tank since it is long and has a bend in it. Once the float is out you can begin to pull the sending unit/pump out. Pull the pump assembly out while pulling the corrugated fuel pick up out of the way. You may also have to rotate the assembly in different directions to get it out.